British design brand 7L recently visited the archive and donated the 415-L7 Down Parka, which is from their A/W19 Trek collection.
The parka is made using Bluesign® approved technical fabrics developed by Schoeller® Switzerland. The 415-L7 Down Parka is constructed with Schoeller® wb-formula and c-change technology.
It is filled with 800 FP Grey Goose Down, Sustainable Down Source (SDS), certified by Responsible Down Standard (RDS). The garment’s outer shell uses ultrasonic welding to create the chamber-like texture of the 415-L7’s exterior. This process applies high-frequency ultrasonic acoustic vibrations to the main outer fabrics under pressure to weld layers of fabric together.
Peter Jensen generously donated a personal selection of 26 pieces from the archive of his label’s menswear collections. The pieces include knitwear, tailoring, shirts and accessories from 2001-2014. The donated garments reflect Jensen’s use of colour, print and playfulness in his designs.
Jensen was born in Denmark and completed an MA in menswear design at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. He established his label in 1999 and designs both menswear and womenswear for his brand.
Cream chunky hand cable knit cricket jumper with low round neck and deep V. The deep V detail is a blue, red and white striped thick band applied around the neckline. Label: Gieves Ltd. No. 38. In 1940 during the Blitz, when Gieves Ltd was at 21 Old Bond Street, it suffered a direct hit, and several of the company’s historic ledgers and Nelson relics were destroyed. In 1974, Gieve's Ltd acquired Hawkes & Co. (est.1771), this being another British firm of distinguished reputation, to become Gieves and Hawkes Ltd.
Pink Jumper with green yellow and purple print. It has an orange false stitched polo style collar. The jumper has purple cuffs, hem and neckline. It has a saddle shoulder seam finished with cover stitching. There is an embroidered racoon with the Best Company logo on the right chest.
Best Company was launched in 1982 by Olmes Carretti with the aim of bringing American classic sportswear together with Italian design and manufacturing. It was known for an expressive use of colour, print and pattern and was adopted by the Milanese 'Paninaro' subculture. The brand was sold and closed soon after in 1992. Olmes Carretti was designer for Best Company between 1982-92.
Part of Jean Paul Gaultier's Autumn Winter 1986 'Russian Constructionist' collection. Black textured zip-up cardigan with lurex Russian text and numbers design and a contrasting red and black checkerboard pattern. The metallic pewter Russian text and numbers feature throughout Gaultier's A/W1986 collection 'Russian Constructivist' and features type in varying sizes all over the cardigan. A double line runs around the hem, and there is a large arrow in the centre back of the cardigan. The red and black checkerboard pattern runs around the collar and down the centre front, either side of the zip. It also features around the elbow of both sleeves.
A UK university has created what it believes is the world's first dedicated archive of men's fashion to be open to the public.
The archive, at the University of Westminster's Harrow campus, contains more than 1,000 garments. Highlights include designs by Alexander McQueen and Burberry, as well as rare military clothing.
It shows the impact military styles have had on menswear designs, says its creator, Andrew Groves. The archive's military clothing collection dates back to World War One.
There are also key pieces from Jean Paul Gaultier, Barbour, Levi's, Berghaus and Comme des Garcons, said Mr Groves, a fashion designer and course director of Westminster's BA in menswear.
"It's like pulling together a social history of menswear in this country, which I don't think has ever really been properly looked at." he said.
"I think what's interesting about menswear is that it's a much smaller community and they're more open and wanting to...
This symposium will feature a number of recognised experts in their field discussing various topics relating to the theme of camouflage: from the natural world to military use, traditional and subversive, its adoption by the fashion world, and of camouflage as a means of disguising one’s true self in the modern age.
The panel will be made up of a number of academics from the University of Westminster and other British universities; including the University of Southampton, The University of Liverpool, and also the Natural History Museum.
The symposium is organised by the University of Westminster to coincide with the exhibition at London Gallery West “The Vanishing Art of Camouflage”, curated by Andrew Groves and Robert Leach using artefacts from the newly created Westminster Menswear Archive.
The symposium will be held on 7 November 2016, at 11 am at London Gallery West, at the Harrow campus.
ANDREW GROVES & ROBERT LEACH
21 OCTOBER – 20 NOVEMBER 2016
LGW is delighted to present The Vanishing Art of Camouflage; co-curated by Andrew Groves, Course Director of BA Fashion, and Robert Leach, Senior Lecturer at the University of Westminster.
Against a contemporary backdrop of ceaseless military action, camouflage has been adopted by civilians as a ubiquitous pattern of our lives, adorning runways, sportswear, skateboards, toilet papers and even condoms.
Used for its striking designs, its ‘patterned disorder’ and its symbolism, the exhibition explores its artistic, fashionable and political use as a strategic and aspirational means to make the visible invisible, and paradoxically the unseen seen.
Using examples that illustrate the development of camouflage from its early military beginnings at the turn of the twentieth century through its varied relationships with artists and designers, the exhibition incorporates still imagery and film to examine the stylistic, sociological, and po...